Peter 'PT' Townend, former world champ, Bronzed Aussie
-There's NO substitute for time in the water!
-Go dancing! Gives you rhythm and surfing takes rhythm.
-Get a new board for that quiver as often as you can. There is nothing more stoking than putting a new stick under your arm!
-Treat that quiver like musical instruments -- keep them tuned.
-Read Jack London's The Royal Sport often. No one has written about the thrill of riding a wave better.
-Play pinball, video games and watch videos -- keeps your mental reflexes sharp which is what great surfing is all about. Great surfing happens when you don't think about it, it just happens and if you can be sharp and visualize it will happen.
-(Most important!) Have an understanding partner, wife, girlfriend, significant other, etc.
-Have Fun With It: We are so lucky to be surfing in this day and age Wetsuits and boards are at the highest of quality -- enjoy yourself and don't take it too seriously.
-Pat O'Connell, former pro, current Hurley marketing dude
-Well, first you MUST adopt the surf-no-matter-what ethos. At least get in the water everyday. ( que cabron, no te jode? ....sobre todo en agosto )
Matt Griggs, coach to world champs
-Understand technique. This is how you move your body, the turns you pick and how you perform them. First understand where your balance (center-of-gravity) is, then add rotations, flexions and extensions from that position. You can move as hard and fast as your balance allows. Your best surfing is done by feel. Stay connected to the feel and be aware that your eyes can be a distraction because they're at a place you are not. Get comfortable with surfing in the critical part of the wave, then add bigger turns as you go along.
-Understanding your equipment: What sort of surfing do you want to achieve and how can your surfboard help you? Start this and talk to your shaper.
-Diet: Eat organically, stay away from processed foods, microwaves and white bread, rice and sugar.
-Understand your metabolic rate (how quickly you convert food into energy) and type (everybody has a unique system that requires a different ratio of proteins, fats and carbs). Protein is anything that has eyes + avocados and nuts; everything else is carbs.
-Food takes up to two hours to digest and digesting food takes a lot of energy, so rest when digesting. If you are surfing and training a lot you should be having around 1.3 times your body weight in grams of protein for muscle recovery. If you've had too much protein you'll do what a lion does after eating (want to sleep) if you've had too many carbs, your energy will rise and fall steeply. Best to have a consistent flow of energy. For the most part, your electro chemical energy (what you are made of) answers to the spiritual law of moderation of all things.
-Exercise: Build and understand balance first. This can be achieved through training and stretching your body as a whole unit. If you don't know what to do, ask someone experienced, if you do, get it done.
-Recovery: Rest is very important. The primary form of recovery or rest is sleep. Make sure you rest as soon as the sun starts going down. This is when your body is regenerating at a cellular level. Meditation is one of the simplest and most profound ways to understand yourself -- and let go any disharmony.
-Enjoyment: Remember always why you surf: because you love it! What parts of surfing do you enjoy most? Power, speed, creativity, flow, progressive?? Study what you enjoy most, as this is what you probably do best. Plus it is easier to feel one theme - and let everything revolve around that.
...lost rocket 5,9 x 19 3/8 x 2 1/4
Magic Carpet...uso y abuso , no solo para olas malas.Diversion Total.
